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Post by copperhead2959 on Feb 21, 2013 19:33:49 GMT -6
I turned on my bike(95 yamaha xj600) and the turn signal fuse blew. replaced it and now i have no rear lights and the signals wont work, also the horn quit to. doesnt seem to be any loose wires. any ideas?
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Post by Doc on Feb 22, 2013 3:57:21 GMT -6
Sounds like you've got a wire pinched somewhere. Did you have anything off the bike recently that you put back on? Wires have a way of getting in the darnedest places sometimes.
I've got a wiring schematic for a '92 model of your bike, but it's too large for the forum's attachment option. If you want to PM me an e-mail address, I can send it to you. If you're not sure how to read wiring schematics, I can swing over this weekend to take a look. Let me know when would be a good time to do so, as well as where to go.
Any questions, just drop me a line!
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Post by Doc on Feb 22, 2013 4:02:44 GMT -6
A quick look at the diagram shows a positive circuit that connects the horn and signal flasher relay (and various meter indicators). I would bet there's a disruption in that circuit, as that's pretty much the only thing that would affect all those systems you mentioned.
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Post by strongchain on Feb 24, 2013 8:44:02 GMT -6
Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics
1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. Home of DeoxIT® and HAND-E-GLOVE® - CAIG Laboratories, Inc. is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).
2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.
3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.
4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.
5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.
6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.
7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.
8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.
9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.
10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.
11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!
12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.
13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).
I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.
14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt
15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.
16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.
17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.
18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.
20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.
21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.
22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.
I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........
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Post by copperhead2959 on Feb 24, 2013 9:45:25 GMT -6
doc came over and helped me out. it ended up being wire from the tach grounding out he found some splits in the wires and helped clean everything up thanks man!
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Post by Tim-WT on Feb 24, 2013 9:55:09 GMT -6
Well done Doc!
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Post by strongchain on Feb 24, 2013 10:45:23 GMT -6
Glad to hear it was a simple fix. Also poor voltage to the coils is a common problem on most vintage bikes. If you find your coils read less than 12 or 13 volts(depending on how new the battery is) your robbing your scooter of power. I found mine at one time to read 10.5. Here's a link to fix that problem.http://www.wgcarbs.com//index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=Itemid=89
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Post by copperhead2959 on Feb 24, 2013 13:44:47 GMT -6
everything is great on the bike and it has a brand new battery i got one with a little more cca than stock, the last owner said the stock battery wouldnt crank it over as easily after they rebuilt/bored out the engine because the compression was to high. starts first shot now.
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Post by Phillip-S on Feb 24, 2013 20:33:43 GMT -6
Great write up strongchain. Thanks for the effort, I'll be copying that to a file so I can find it later.
I agree copperhead, doc's an electrical whiz, and generous with his time. The nice thing about this group is those that can, help the rest of us. :-)
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Post by strongchain on Feb 24, 2013 20:51:29 GMT -6
Yes Phil. It's not mine. But I know the man that I copy and pasted it from would be more than glad to share his knowledge. He was an aircraft mechanic.
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Post by copperhead2959 on Feb 25, 2013 15:03:24 GMT -6
well the wiring is all patched up and the naked conversion is just about complete. just have to figure something out for the neutral/bright dummy signals and put the rear end back together. it was broken so i cut it apart and made a rear bracket for the l.p. and signals so it's all nice and tight now. Attachments:
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Post by Doc on Feb 26, 2013 16:23:47 GMT -6
well the wiring is all patched up and the naked conversion is just about complete. just have to figure something out for the neutral/bright dummy signals and put the rear end back together. it was broken so i cut it apart and made a rear bracket for the l.p. and signals so it's all nice and tight now. Well, if you need indicators or idiot lights, I've got a huge box of them, sorted by color. Amber, red, green, blue, white and purple. Incandescent and LED. Sizes ranging from nearly an inch in diameter to 3/16ths of an inch. Let me know if you're interested, man. |
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Post by copperhead2959 on Feb 26, 2013 17:23:22 GMT -6
heck yeah man sounds good i'd like to do a small led setup just bright, neutral and maybe turn signal indicator.
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Post by Doc on Feb 26, 2013 19:53:25 GMT -6
heck yeah man sounds good i'd like to do a small led setup just bright, neutral and maybe turn signal indicator. Looking at reference pics of the dash assembly online, it appears your bike had an indicator for Neutral, High Beam, Oil Pressure, and two indicators for the turn signals. You might want to keep the oil pressure option, as that could save you from sudden problems in the future! I can swing by sometime with what I've got if you want. Let me know when your schedule is open. Also, could you post a photo of the handlebar area of the bike (or wherever you'd want the lights located)? It'd make it easier to determine if a mount has to be fabricated for the lights. Thanks! |
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Post by copperhead2959 on Feb 26, 2013 22:45:45 GMT -6
yeah i'll go grab a picture real quick and you're probably right about keeping the oil pressure gauge to save the bike with the way i've been riding it lately.
i cant help it though the thing is a blast and looks great since the naked conversion.
anytime you'd want to stop by would be fine just give me a ring first(no life for the next few weeks) and if you'd want i could bring it to you. thank you guys for the advice and doc for the help
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