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Post by Phillip-S on Mar 3, 2012 1:28:45 GMT -6
Cullen, I'm with missourimike, you have a reasonable expectation for the job you paid for to be done correctly, unless your mechanic can give you an alternative diagnosis for causing the identical symptoms (unlikely). I had the same problem crop up on my CB750, in fact it was leaking so much it was flooding out the spark in a couple of cylinders, and I thought it was an intermittent bad coil. Mechanic diagnosed bad (old) o-rings in the transfer tubes between carbs, and several bad needle valves. After repair, I picked it up, got about a mile away, and it does it again. Back to the shop. Carbs go back on the bench, and he finds a tiny bit of gunk on 2 needle valves. Said it might have been some old gasket, dirty gas, or trash from the tank. He didn't charge to correct it as he said he should have caught it the first time around, and he stands behind his work. I walked (rode) away a happy customer. And he also steered me towards Conoco and Sinclair premium gas (actually said there were 4 brands, I just can't remember the other 2) because he said it is less likely to have ethanol, and old rubber and delicate carbs hate ethanol. Good luck!
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Post by Tim-WT on Mar 3, 2012 8:04:00 GMT -6
Good argument for adding that $3 inline filter from OReilly!
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Post by Phillip-S on Mar 3, 2012 9:53:34 GMT -6
Good argument for adding that $3 inline filter from OReilly! . A lesson I won't soon forget! |
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Post by cbcrocker on Mar 4, 2012 10:11:00 GMT -6
Upon further inspection the leaks are from the #3 and #4 carb exhaust tubing, flows pretty steady from #3? I ALWAYS shut off my gas, when i opened up the fuel line the original leak was from between the #1 and #2 carbs but it is no longer leaking from that area. I never took my carbs off the slide (too much work for this novice) so i dont know what problems may exist between each carb but I've never had a problem in that area. I did not set the float height, wasn't sure how but all looked even when reassembled. I'm leaning towards visiting Ozark Powersports or 417 out in Nixa b/c i was lead to them by a few of you. Only weary b/c those guys started talking big $$ rebuilds (which is why I tackled it on my own). With baby on the way my hobby fund is bare!! Each nice weekend I dont get to ride with you all is a kick in the junk!!
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Post by Phillip-S on Mar 4, 2012 10:30:32 GMT -6
I wish I could help more Cullen, but I'm staring at my first multi carb rebuild myself (with more than a little trepidation). The guy that did the work on my CB750 was Dennis at TRS Motorsports in Nixa (check in the "Who do we love?" forum if you want contact details) and he did a great job, but it did run into some $$. The job is time consuming, and when you're paying by the hour it adds up quickly. I commiserate with your need to economize. Tim and I were talking just yesterday about our need to rapidly expand our wrenching capabilities before these beasts eat us out of house and home! I appreciate the pros amongst us, and gladly pay them for their hard work and expertise, but I need to save my $$ to pay them for the big jobs, and learn to do the ongoing maintenance stuff myself. And sadly, it would seem carb rebuilds fall into that category.
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Post by cbcrocker on Mar 4, 2012 10:37:02 GMT -6
@phillip, a reality that I am quickly accepting! although my 4 carb knowledge has expanded it has not produced the desired results! like i said, i'll probably just bite the bullet and start adding up the OT hours i'll have to work to enjoy my hobby!
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Post by Phillip-S on Mar 4, 2012 10:46:46 GMT -6
If you have access to YouTube you might try searching for a video of somebody rebuilding your model carb (or something close). Tim was telling me he found a series of videos for doing some work on his Yamaha. Sounds like there's a lot of stuff out there, and you might even run across something that would help you troubleshoot your problem w/o another disassembly.
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Post by Phillip-S on Mar 5, 2012 8:36:46 GMT -6
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Post by cbcrocker on May 7, 2012 7:38:30 GMT -6
Last night I was removing the flange bolts that the headers attach to, well one was giving me trouble and finally broke off inside the threads! Anyone have a suggestion how I can remove the broken bolt without screwing up the threads?
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Post by Jack P on May 7, 2012 21:33:12 GMT -6
First start out by PB Blasting the thread area. If you have time do this for a day or two. Take a small center punch and place in the middle of the bolt then hit it with a hammer. Start with a small carbide bit and start the drill at the center punch dent. Take your time and drill slowly and straight and oil your bit. Then step up your drill as much as you can before hitting the thread or large enough to use and easy out tool. (you can purchase at any tool store Sears, Grizzly or HF) It should come out fine some heat it a little but I would try this first. Its not as hard as you think.
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Post by cbcrocker on May 8, 2012 7:39:15 GMT -6
Thanks Jack, been using the PB, figured I would have to drill it out just wasn't sure how to go about it.
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Post by brad on May 8, 2012 13:02:12 GMT -6
The method Jack laid out works.
Don't get in a hurry.
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Post by cbcrocker on May 26, 2012 9:57:24 GMT -6
So despite my best effort I was not able to remove the broken bolt, now I just have a broken bolt with a drilled out center. I'm afraid to go any further with it for fear of ruining the threads. Any more suggestions? With baby on the way (literally days away) my riding season may be over before it ever begins!
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